How to Remove a Stripped Screw
Get a stripped screw out with a rubber band, a different bit, locking pliers, a cut slot, a screw extractor, or by drilling off the head, starting with the method that does the least damage.
You will end up with the stripped screw out, using the lightest method that works, from a rubber band to drilling off the head. The steps run in that order, so stop at the first one that turns the screw.
A stripped screw happens when the recess in the screw head gets worn down to the point where a screwdriver can no longer grip it. The driver just spins freely instead of turning the screw, and the harder you push on a slipping driver, the faster the recess wears away.
The first three methods need only a rubber band, your screwdrivers or a Torx bit, and a pair of pliers. The rest need a rotary tool, an extractor set, or a drill.
Thick rubber band Screwdrivers (Phillips, flathead) in multiple sizes Torx bit set Locking pliers (Vise-Grips) Screw extractor set with left-hand drill bits Power drill with variable speed and reverse Center punch and hammer Rotary tool with metal-cutting disc (for the slot-cutting method) Safety glasses Penetrating oil (for corroded screws)
Use a rubber band for extra grip
This is the simplest fix and the one to try first. Grab a wide rubber band, the thicker the better. Lay it flat over the stripped screw head so it covers the entire recess. Press your screwdriver straight down through the rubber band into what is left of the screw head, and turn slowly with firm downward pressure, which is Family Handyman's version of the trick. The rubber fills the gaps where the metal has been worn away and creates enough friction to grip. Go slow. If you spin too fast, you will shred the rubber band before the screw moves. This works best on lightly stripped screws in softwood, drywall, or plastic. If the screw head is completely rounded or the screw is set in hardwood or metal, expect the band to tear before the screw moves (FAQ 2 below). It costs nothing, so do it first anyway.
Good to know: If you do not have a rubber band, use a piece of steel wool or a thin cloth the same way. Anything that adds friction between the driver and the screw head helps.
Switch screwdriver type or size
Sometimes the fix is already in your toolbox. If the screw has a Phillips head, switch to a flathead screwdriver. The flat blade can catch the remaining edges of the recess and get enough bite to turn the screw out. Also go one size up or down from your current driver. A slightly larger bit seats deeper into the worn metal, and a slightly smaller one catches edges the current bit is slipping past. The other swap is a Torx bit wedged into a stripped Phillips head. The six-pointed star shape bites into whatever metal is left in the recess. Pick the Torx bit that fits snugly into the recess, push down hard, and turn slowly.
Grab pliers if the head is exposed
If any part of the screw head sticks up above the surface, clamp a pair of locking pliers (Vise-Grips) onto it and squeeze the adjustment knob until the grip is tight. Then turn counterclockwise. The key is getting a solid bite. Adjust the pliers so they clamp down as tightly as possible. A loose grip will just spin on the screw head and round it off even more. Needle-nose pliers work for smaller screws where locking pliers are too bulky. Standard pliers work too, but you will need to squeeze hard while turning, which is tiring. Locking pliers hold themselves in place, which is why they are the better tool for this job. This method does not work if the screw is flush with or below the surface. For those, keep reading.
Cut a new slot with a rotary tool
If the screw head is flush with the surface and the recess is completely destroyed, you can create a brand new slot to drive with a flathead screwdriver. Put on safety glasses before you start, because cutting metal throws tiny shards off the screw and the disc. Attach a thin metal-cutting disc to a rotary tool like a Dremel. Cut a straight line across the top of the screw head, only as deep as a flathead screwdriver blade needs to seat in the groove without slipping. You are not trying to cut through the screw. Once the slot is cut, press a flathead screwdriver into it firmly and turn counterclockwise. The fresh-cut edges give plenty of grip. If you do not have a rotary tool, a hacksaw works for accessible screws. It is slower and harder to control, but the result is the same: a clean slot across the screw head.
Heads up: Keep the rotary tool speed moderate. Too fast and you will overshoot the slot and cut into the surface around the screw.
Use a screw extractor for stubborn screws
A screw extractor is a reverse-threaded bit designed specifically for this problem. It bites deeper into the screw the harder you turn, which is the opposite of a regular driver that cams out under pressure. Put on safety glasses first. Bob Vila's guide to extractors warns that drilling and striking a screw can send small shards of metal flying. Tap a center punch into the middle of the screw head to create a small dimple. This keeps the drill bit from wandering. Then drill a small pilot hole into the screw head using a left-hand (reverse) drill bit with the drill set to reverse, at a low speed and with light pressure, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep depending on the size of the extractor. The pilot hole should be slightly smaller in diameter than the extractor you plan to use. Insert the screw extractor into the pilot hole and turn counterclockwise with a tap wrench or adjustable wrench. The extractor threads grip the inside of the hole and back the screw out. If you are using a power drill, set it to reverse and use the lowest speed setting. Extractors are numbered by size, and each set pairs its numbers with screw sizes on its own chart. Pick the extractor from the chart for the screw you are removing (FAQ 3 below covers sizes in between).
Good to know: Left-hand drill bits sometimes remove the screw before you even get to the extractor. Because they spin in reverse, they naturally try to unscrew the fastener as they drill. Do not be surprised if the screw backs out during the pilot hole step.
Drill through the screw head as a last resort
If nothing else has worked, you can drill the head off the screw entirely. This separates the head from the shaft so you can remove the piece you are working on, then deal with the remaining shaft separately. Put on safety glasses and punch a dimple in the center of the head, as in step 5, so the bit starts on the screw and not beside it. Choose a drill bit that is roughly the same diameter as the screw shank, not the threads. Center it on the screw head and drill straight down at a slow speed. Once the head pops off, lift your workpiece free. The threaded shaft will be sticking up from the material underneath. Grab the exposed shaft with locking pliers and turn counterclockwise to back it out. If it will not budge, apply penetrating oil, wait the time on its label, and try again. WD-40's directions for its Specialist Penetrant call for a couple of minutes and say to repeat the application on heavily rusted bolts, so reapply if the shaft still holds. This method destroys the screw, can enlarge the hole, and risks scratching or gouging the surrounding material, which is why it comes last.
Heads up: Go slow and keep the drill perfectly straight. If the bit drifts off center, it will chew into the material around the screw instead of the screw itself.
Once the screw is out, put a new screw in its place rather than the damaged one, and prevent the next strip. Match the bit to the screw, apply firm downward pressure before you start turning, and keep your power drill on a low speed setting. If the screw was rusted in place, our guide on how to remove rust from metal covers cleaning and sealing the hardware around it. If the screw was holding something to the wall and you need to put things back together, our guide on how to hang a picture covers proper anchoring technique so your next screw goes in clean. And if your projects are moving from repairs to woodworking, our guide on how to use a router table is a good next step.
Questions we get asked about this
Answers from experience, not a textbook.
Yes. The rubber band method, the flathead-in-a-Phillips swap, and the pliers technique all use common household items or basic toolbox staples. A Torx bit wedged into a stripped Phillips head also works, so check whether your multi-bit screwdriver set includes Torx bits. You only need specialty tools like screw extractors or a rotary tool for severely stripped screws that simpler methods cannot handle.
Yes, within the limits step 1 sets out. Where it fails is anything needing real torque, so a severely rounded head or a screw set into hardwood or metal will shred the band before the screw moves. That failure is informative rather than wasted time. If the band tears and the screw has not shifted, you have learned the screw needs a mechanical bite rather than extra friction, which sends you to the pliers in step 3 or the cut slot in step 4.
Use the chart that comes with your extractor set, because each maker pairs its numbered sizes with screw sizes its own way. The extractor should be slightly smaller than the screw shaft, and the pilot hole slightly smaller than the extractor (step 5). If your screw falls between two sizes, start with the smaller extractor and step up if it does not grip.
Check the fit between bit and screw first. A bit that is too small, too large, or the wrong profile for the screw head will slip under torque and round out the recess, and every slip makes the next one easier. Other causes include over-tightening, using a power drill at too high a speed, worn-out driver bits, and cheap soft-metal screws. Corrosion also weakens the recess walls over time, making them crumble when you try to turn the screw.
Yes. Forcing a stripped screw with a slipping driver can gouge or scratch the surrounding surface, especially on finished wood, painted surfaces, or plastic. If the screw shaft snaps inside the material, removing the broken piece becomes a much harder job that may require drilling out the entire shaft. Stop as soon as a screw starts stripping and switch to one of the removal methods in steps 1 to 6 instead of pushing harder with the same driver.
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