How to Remove a Stripped Screw
Six proven methods to remove a stripped screw, from the rubber band trick to screw extractors. Step-by-step guide for DIYers and homeowners.
You are halfway through a project, the screwdriver slips, and now the screw head is a smooth, useless crater. It will not go in and it will not come out. We have been there more times than we care to admit.
A stripped screw happens when the recess in the screw head gets worn down to the point where a screwdriver can no longer grip it. The driver just spins freely instead of turning the screw. It is one of the most common and most frustrating problems in DIY work.
There are several reliable ways to get a stripped screw out. The first three use tools that are already in most toolboxes, and the rest need a rotary tool, an extractor set, or a drill. We will start with the simplest methods and work up to the heavy-duty options for screws that refuse to cooperate.
Thick rubber band Screwdrivers (Phillips, flathead) in multiple sizes Torx bit set Locking pliers (Vise-Grips) Screw extractor set with left-hand drill bits Power drill with variable speed and reverse Center punch and hammer Rotary tool with metal-cutting disc (for the slot-cutting method) Safety glasses Penetrating oil (for corroded screws)
Try a rubber band for extra grip
This is the simplest fix and the one to try first. Grab a wide rubber band, the thicker the better. Lay it flat over the stripped screw head so it covers the entire recess. Press your screwdriver straight down through the rubber band into what is left of the screw head, and turn slowly with firm downward pressure. The rubber fills the gaps where the metal has been worn away and creates enough friction to grip. Go slow. If you spin too fast, you will shred the rubber band before the screw moves. This works best on lightly stripped screws in softwood, drywall, or plastic. If the screw head is completely rounded or the screw is buried in hardwood or metal, the rubber band alone probably will not cut it. But it costs nothing and takes ten seconds, so it is always worth trying first.
Good to know: A piece of steel wool or even a thin cloth can work the same way if you do not have a rubber band handy. Anything that adds friction between the driver and the screw head helps.
Switch screwdriver type or size
Sometimes the fix is already in your toolbox. If the screw has a Phillips head, try a flathead screwdriver instead. The flat blade can catch the remaining edges of the recess and get enough bite to turn the screw out. You can also try going one size up or down from your current driver. A slightly larger bit might seat into the worn metal more firmly. A slightly smaller one might catch on edges the current bit is slipping past. The trick that works surprisingly well is wedging a Torx bit into a stripped Phillips head. The six-pointed star shape bites into whatever metal is left in the recess. Try a T20 or T25 Torx bit, push down hard, and turn slowly. This works better than it has any right to.
Grab pliers if the head is exposed
If any part of the screw head sticks up above the surface, locking pliers are your most reliable option. Clamp a pair of locking pliers (Vise-Grips) onto the screw head and squeeze the adjustment knob until the grip is tight. Then turn counterclockwise. The key is getting a solid bite. Adjust the pliers so they clamp down as tightly as possible. A loose grip will just spin on the screw head and round it off even more. Needle-nose pliers work for smaller screws where locking pliers are too bulky. Standard pliers work too, but you will need to squeeze hard while turning, which is tiring. Locking pliers hold themselves in place, which is why they are the better tool for this job. This method does not work if the screw is flush with or below the surface. For those, keep reading.
Cut a new slot with a rotary tool
If the screw head is flush with the surface and the recess is completely destroyed, you can create a brand new slot to drive with a flathead screwdriver. Attach a thin metal-cutting disc to a rotary tool like a Dremel. Cut a straight line across the top of the screw head, about 1 to 2 millimeters deep. You are not trying to cut through the screw. You just need a groove deep enough for a flathead screwdriver blade to seat into. Once the slot is cut, press a flathead screwdriver into it firmly and turn counterclockwise. The fresh-cut edges give plenty of grip. If you do not have a rotary tool, a hacksaw works for accessible screws. It is slower and harder to control, but the result is the same: a clean slot across the screw head.
Heads up: Wear safety glasses when cutting metal. Tiny shards fly off the screw and the cutting disc. Keep the rotary tool speed moderate. Too fast and you will overshoot the slot.
Use a screw extractor for stubborn screws
A screw extractor is a reverse-threaded bit designed specifically for this problem. It bites deeper into the screw the harder you turn, which is the opposite of a regular driver that cams out under pressure. Start by tapping a center punch into the middle of the screw head to create a small dimple. This keeps the drill bit from wandering. Then drill a small pilot hole into the screw head using a left-hand (reverse) drill bit. Use a low speed and light pressure. The pilot hole should be slightly smaller in diameter than the extractor you plan to use. Insert the screw extractor into the pilot hole and turn counterclockwise with a tap wrench or adjustable wrench. The extractor threads grip the inside of the hole and back the screw out. If you are using a power drill, set it to reverse and use the lowest speed setting. Extractor sets come in sizes #1 through #5. Match the extractor to the screw diameter. A #1 handles tiny screws around #4 to #6 gauge. A #2 handles #6 to #10. A #3 handles the common #10 to #14 range. The set usually includes a sizing chart.
Good to know: Left-hand drill bits sometimes remove the screw before you even get to the extractor. Because they spin in reverse, they naturally try to unscrew the fastener as they drill. Do not be surprised if the screw backs out during the pilot hole step.
Drill through the screw head as a last resort
If nothing else has worked, you can drill the head off the screw entirely. This separates the head from the shaft so you can remove the piece you are working on, then deal with the remaining shaft separately. Choose a drill bit that is roughly the same diameter as the screw shank, not the threads. Center it on the screw head and drill straight down at a slow speed. Once the head pops off, lift your workpiece free. The threaded shaft will be sticking up from the material underneath. Grab the exposed shaft with locking pliers and turn counterclockwise to back it out. If it will not budge, apply a few drops of penetrating oil and wait 10 to 15 minutes before trying again. This method works, but it is destructive. The screw is done for, the hole may be slightly enlarged, and you risk scratching or gouging the surrounding material. It is the last resort for a reason.
Heads up: Go slow and keep the drill perfectly straight. If the bit drifts off center, it will chew into the material around the screw instead of the screw itself. A center punch helps prevent this.
Start simple and work your way up. The rubber band and the screwdriver swap handle most lightly stripped screws in a few seconds. Locking pliers are the go-to when the screw head is exposed. For the really stubborn ones buried flush in the material, a screw extractor or a new slot cut with a rotary tool will get the job done. Once the screw is out, take a second to figure out why it stripped in the first place. Using the right size driver for the screw head is the single biggest thing you can do to prevent it from happening again. Match the bit to the screw, apply firm downward pressure before you start turning, and keep your power drill on a low speed setting. Those three habits will save you from stripping screws in the future. If the screw was holding something to the wall and you need to put things back together, our guide on how to hang a picture covers proper anchoring technique so your next screw goes in clean.
Questions we get asked about this
Answers from experience, not a textbook.
Yes. The rubber band method, the flathead-in-a-Phillips swap, and the pliers technique all use common household items or basic toolbox staples. A Torx bit wedged into a stripped Phillips head also works and most multi-bit screwdriver sets include a few Torx sizes. You only need specialty tools like screw extractors or a rotary tool for severely stripped screws that simpler methods cannot handle.
It works on lightly stripped screws, especially in softwood, drywall, or plastic. The rubber fills the gaps in the worn recess and creates enough friction for the screwdriver to grip. It is not a fix for severely rounded screw heads or screws set in hardwood or metal where higher torque is needed. But since it takes ten seconds and costs nothing, it is always worth trying before moving on to more involved methods.
Match the extractor to the screw diameter. It should be slightly smaller than the screw shaft. Most extractor sets come with a sizing chart. As a rough guide: a #1 extractor handles screws around #4 to #6 gauge, a #2 handles #6 to #10, a #3 handles #10 to #14, and larger sizes handle bolts up to about 3/4 inch. When in doubt, start with the smaller extractor. You can always step up if it does not grip.
The most common cause is using the wrong size or type of screwdriver. A bit that is too small, too large, or the wrong profile for the screw head will slip under torque and round out the recess. Other causes include over-tightening, using a power drill at too high a speed, worn-out driver bits, and cheap soft-metal screws. Corrosion also weakens the recess walls over time, making them crumble when you try to turn the screw.
Yes. Forcing a stripped screw with a slipping driver can gouge or scratch the surrounding surface, especially on finished wood, painted surfaces, or plastic. If the screw shaft snaps inside the material, removing the broken piece becomes a much harder job that may require drilling out the entire shaft. That is why it is important to stop as soon as a screw starts stripping and switch to a proper removal method instead of pushing harder with the same driver.
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