How to Change Your Oil
Save money and learn your car better. A complete walkthrough of changing your engine oil at home, from draining to disposal.
Changing your own oil feels like it requires a garage and a mechanic's license. It does not. It requires about 30 minutes, some basic tools, and a willingness to get a little dirty.
We started doing our own oil changes to save money. A quick-lube shop charges $50 to $90 depending on oil type. Doing it yourself costs $25 to $40 in materials. We kept doing it because the process is oddly satisfying. Draining old, dark oil and filling the engine with fresh, amber fluid makes the car feel new.
Beyond the savings, there is real value in understanding your car better. You notice things when you are underneath it. Leaks, wear, rust. Early catches prevent expensive repairs later.
The correct oil for your car (check your owner's manual for type and quantity, something like "5W-30 synthetic, 5 quarts"). A new oil filter that matches your engine (the auto parts store can look this up by year, make, and model). A drain pan to catch the old oil (at least 6 quart capacity). A socket wrench set. An oil filter wrench if the old filter is on tight. Jack stands or ramps if your car sits low. Old towels or rags. Disposable gloves optional but recommended.
Warm up the engine briefly
Run the car for 3 to 5 minutes. Warm oil flows faster and carries more suspended contaminants with it, which means a more complete drain. You do not want the oil hot though. Hot oil can burn you and the exhaust components will be dangerously hot. Just warm is perfect. If you just drove home, let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes before starting.
Raise the car if needed
If you can comfortably slide under your car with the drain pan, skip this step. Most sedans and low-riding cars need to be raised. Drive the front wheels up onto ramps, or use a floor jack and then lower the car onto jack stands at the jack points. Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack. Jacks can fail. Jack stands cannot. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
Heads up: This is the only step where people actually get hurt. A car falling off a jack can kill you. Use jack stands every single time. If you cannot afford them, use ramps. Both cost under $40 and last forever.
Locate and remove the drain plug
Slide under the car with your drain pan and socket wrench. The oil pan is a flat metal surface on the bottom of the engine. The drain plug is a single bolt on the lowest point of the oil pan. It is usually 14mm, 17mm, or 19mm. Position the drain pan slightly behind the plug because the oil will arc outward as it drains. Loosen the plug with the wrench, then unscrew the last few turns by hand so you can pull the plug away quickly. Oil will flow out fast. Let it drain completely, which takes about 5 minutes. The stream will slow to occasional drips.
Replace the drain plug
Inspect the drain plug washer. It is a small metal or rubber ring that sits between the plug and the oil pan to create a seal. If it looks crushed, worn, or damaged, replace it. New ones cost about 50 cents at the auto parts store. Thread the plug back in by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with the wrench. Snug is the goal. Overtightening can strip the threads in the oil pan, which is an expensive mistake.
Remove the old oil filter
The oil filter location varies by car. It is usually a cylindrical canister on the side or bottom of the engine. Some cars have a cartridge-style filter under a cap on top of the engine. Check your manual if you cannot find it. Unscrew the old filter by hand if you can. If it is too tight, use an oil filter wrench (there are several styles, strap wrenches work on almost everything). The filter will have oil in it, so angle it carefully as you remove it. Wipe the mounting surface on the engine with a clean rag to remove any old gasket material.
Install the new oil filter
Before screwing on the new filter, dip your finger in fresh oil and spread a thin layer around the rubber gasket ring on the new filter. This helps it seal properly and makes removal easier next time. Thread the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the mounting surface, then tighten another three-quarters of a turn by hand. Do not use a wrench to install a filter. Hand-tight is the correct torque for spin-on filters.
Good to know: Always lubricate the new filter gasket with fresh oil. A dry gasket can stick to the engine surface, making it extremely difficult to remove next time. It also risks the gasket folding during installation, which causes leaks.
Add fresh oil
Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (it usually has an oil can icon on it). Using a funnel, pour in about 80% of the amount your manual specifies. For example, if your car takes 5 quarts, pour in 4. Wait a minute for the oil to settle into the pan, then pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and pull it out again to check the level. The oil should be between the two marks (minimum and maximum). Add more in small amounts until you reach the upper mark. Do not overfill. Too much oil creates excessive crankcase pressure and can damage seals.
Check for leaks and verify the level
Replace the filler cap, start the engine, and let it idle for about 60 seconds. The oil pressure light on your dashboard should turn off within a few seconds. While it idles, check underneath the car around the drain plug and oil filter for any drips. If you see a drip, turn off the engine and tighten the leaking component slightly. After the check, turn off the engine, wait 2 to 3 minutes for oil to settle back into the pan, and check the dipstick one final time. Top off if needed.
Your first attempt will be slow and messy. That is normal. By the third time, you will have a system and the whole job takes under 30 minutes. Keep a small notebook in your glove box with the date, mileage, and oil type each time you change it. This makes it easy to know when the next change is due. One honest note. If you drive a car where the oil filter is buried in a difficult spot, or if you live in an apartment with no good place to work, the quick-lube shop might genuinely be worth the money for you. No shame in that. The goal is knowing you could do it yourself, not forcing yourself to every time.
Questions we get asked about this
Answers from experience, not a textbook.
Your owner's manual lists the exact specification, something like "5W-30 synthetic" or "0W-20 full synthetic." The numbers indicate viscosity (flow rate) at different temperatures. The auto parts store can also look it up by your car's year, make, and model. Using the wrong weight can affect engine protection and fuel economy. When in doubt, match what the manual says exactly.
Never pour it down a drain or into the ground. Used motor oil is a regulated pollutant. Most auto parts stores (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts) accept used oil for free recycling. Pour the old oil from your drain pan into the empty containers from your new oil. Bring them to the store. Many municipal recycling centers also accept used oil and filters.
Most modern cars running full synthetic oil can go 5,000 to 7,500 miles between changes. Some newer engines with advanced synthetics are approved for 10,000 mile intervals. Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer recommendation. The old "every 3,000 miles" rule applied to conventional oil in older engines. Following it with modern synthetic just wastes oil and money.
Yes. You can switch freely between conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic. They are compatible and mixing them causes no damage. However, once you switch to synthetic, there is no real reason to go back. Synthetic protects better at extreme temperatures, lasts longer between changes, and keeps the engine cleaner internally.
A small overfill (less than half a quart over the maximum mark) is not an emergency. Drive it and check again after the next fill-up. A significant overfill can cause foaming, increased crankcase pressure, and seal damage. To remove excess oil, you can loosen the drain plug slightly and let a small amount drip out, or use a hand pump to suction oil out through the dipstick tube.
Car Owner Essentials
How to Check Tire Pressure
How to Change a Tire
How to Change Your Oil
← you’re hereHow to Check Your Oil
How to Jump Start a Car
How to Parallel Park
How to Use Jumper Cables