How to Fold a Pocket Square
Fold a pocket square three ways, the flat fold, the puff fold, and the one-point fold, and pick the right one for the occasion.
You will end up with three pocket square folds and a rule for choosing between them. The flat fold suits business and conservative events, the puff fold suits casual or creative ones, and the one-point fold sits in between. Step 4 matches each fold to the occasion.
Practice each one two or three times at home before you wear it, so the folds are familiar before you are doing them in a hurry.
A pocket square. Cotton or linen is the most versatile. Silk looks dressier but is slippery and harder to fold crisply. A basic white cotton pocket square is cheap and is the one that will sit with any suit and tie you already own. A suit jacket or sport coat with a breast pocket. A flat surface to fold on for the flat fold and the one-point fold.
Make the flat fold (also called the presidential fold)
Lay the pocket square flat on a surface. Fold it in half from left to right to make a rectangle. Then fold it in half again from bottom to top to make a smaller square. Fold the left and right sides in until it is as wide as the inside of your breast pocket. Fold the bottom up until the folded edge will sit a quarter to half an inch above the pocket when the square rests on the pocket floor. Slide it into the breast pocket with the folded edge up and straighten that edge so it runs parallel to the pocket line. Wear this fold for business and formal settings.
Good to know: If the pocket square does not sit flat in the pocket, fold it one more time to reduce the bulk at the bottom. The visible portion should be a clean, straight line. If it keeps sliding down, a small piece of cardboard at the bottom of the pocket can act as a shelf to keep it in place.
Make the puff fold
Lay the pocket square flat. Pinch the center of the fabric and lift it so it drapes down into a soft cone shape. Gather the hanging fabric loosely with your other hand and fold the bottom up to create a base that fits the pocket depth. Tuck it into the breast pocket with the puffed center facing up. Adjust the puff so it looks rounded and natural, not pointy. The puff fold is casual and relaxed. It works best with cotton or linen squares and looks good with sport coats and less formal suits. Silk squares puff nicely but tend to slip down, so check the puff during the event and lift it back up when it sinks.
Make the one-point fold
Lay the pocket square flat in a diamond orientation (rotated 45 degrees so a corner points up). Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner, creating a triangle. Fold the left corner across to the right side, about two-thirds of the way across. Fold the right corner across to the left side, overlapping the first fold. Fold the bottom up to create a flat base. Tuck it into the pocket with the single point facing up. Adjust the point so it is centered and extends about an inch above the pocket line. This fold is slightly more dressed up than the puff but less rigid than the flat fold.
Choose the right fold for the occasion
Business meetings and conservative events: flat fold. It is subtle and professional. Weddings and parties: one-point fold or puff. They add visual interest without being showy. Casual events with sport coats: puff fold. It looks relaxed. Black-tie formal events: flat fold with a white pocket square, which is also our pick for any event where you are unsure how formal it is. The more formal the event, the flatter and more structured the fold. Save the creative folds for situations where you want to show personality.
If the square sinks into the pocket during the day, set a piece of card on the pocket floor as a shelf, as the step 1 tip describes. If the visible edge looks crooked, take the square out and refold it on a flat surface instead of adjusting it inside the pocket. FAQ 1 below covers matching the square to your tie. To finish the outfit, our guides on how to tie a tie and how to tie a bow tie cover the knots, and a white cotton square in a flat fold goes with either one.
Questions we get asked about this
Answers from experience, not a textbook.
No, and do not match it exactly. A pocket square cut from the same fabric as your tie reads as a boxed set rather than as a choice. Pick up one color from your tie or shirt in a different pattern instead. Or wear a plain white one, which sits happily with any suit and tie you own.
Cotton and linen hold folds crisply and are the most versatile. They work with every fold type and every level of formality. Silk is dressier and has a beautiful drape for puff folds but does not hold crisp edges well. Wool is great for fall and winter with textured sport coats. For your first pocket square, get white cotton. Add a patterned silk and a linen one after that.
About a quarter to half an inch for the flat fold. About an inch for the puff fold and the one-point fold. A pocket square that extends 2 inches above the pocket looks like a handkerchief you forgot to put away, so when you are between two heights, choose the lower one.
Yes. For smart casual events, a pocket square dresses up a plain suit or sport coat without the formality of a tie. Use a puff fold or a relaxed one-point fold for this look, because a flat fold with an open collar can look stiff.
Look Sharp
How to Tie a Tie
How to Tie a Bow Tie
How to Fold a Pocket Square
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