How to Sew
Learn the basic hand sewing stitches you need to fix, alter, and create things. Covers threading a needle, running stitch, backstitch, and hemming.
We grew up thinking sewing was a specialist skill that required expensive machines and years of practice. So every time something ripped, a hem came undone, or a seam split, we either threw it away or paid someone else to fix it.
Turns out the basics of hand sewing are absurdly simple. Two or three stitches cover almost every repair you will ever need. Closing a hole, reattaching a seam, hemming pants that are too long. None of these require a machine or any real skill. They require a needle, thread, and ten minutes.
This guide teaches you the foundational hand stitches that cover 90% of everyday sewing needs. You will not be making clothes from scratch, but you will be able to fix anything that rips, replace any button, and hem anything that is too long.
A pack of basic hand-sewing needles (called "sharps" at any craft store), all-purpose polyester thread in a few colors (black, white, and navy cover most situations), fabric scissors or any sharp scissors, pins for holding fabric in place, and a measuring tape or ruler. Total cost for a basic kit is about ten to fifteen dollars and lasts for years.
Thread the needle and secure the end
Cut about 18 to 24 inches of thread. Longer than that and it tangles. Shorter and you run out mid-repair. Thread one end through the eye of the needle. You can double the thread for extra strength (pull until both ends meet and knot them together) or keep it single for finer work. To knot the end, wrap the thread around your index finger once, roll it off with your thumb to create a twist, then pull tight. This creates a small, secure knot. If you have trouble threading the needle, trim the thread at a sharp angle or use a needle threader, which is a small wire tool that comes in most sewing kits. Match your thread color to the fabric as closely as possible. If you cannot find an exact match, go slightly darker rather than lighter because darker thread blends in better against most fabrics. Use polyester all-purpose thread for most repairs. Cotton thread works but breaks more easily under stress and is best reserved for natural fiber fabrics being hand-washed.
Learn the running stitch for basic joining
The running stitch is the simplest stitch and the foundation of all hand sewing. Push the needle down through the fabric, then back up a short distance away. Each stitch should be about a quarter inch long with a quarter inch between stitches. You can do multiple stitches at once by weaving the needle up and down through the fabric before pulling the thread through. This is called loading the needle and it speeds up straight seams considerably. Aim for three or four stitches loaded on the needle before pulling through. This stitch is fast and works for basting (temporary stitching), gathering fabric, and quick repairs that will not be under stress. It is not the strongest stitch, but for lightweight repairs and seams that are not load-bearing, it is perfectly sufficient. For gathering, use a long running stitch and leave the thread unknotted at the end. Pulling the thread bunches the fabric into ruffles, which is how waistbands and sleeves are gathered in garment construction.
Learn the backstitch for strong seams
The backstitch is the strongest hand stitch and mimics what a sewing machine produces. Make one running stitch forward. Then insert the needle backward into the end of the previous stitch and come up one stitch length ahead. You are always going back to fill the gap before moving forward. The result is a continuous line of stitches with no gaps, which creates a strong, flexible seam. Use the backstitch for any repair that will be under stress: split seams on clothes, ripped bag straps, torn pockets, or any seam that needs to hold up to regular use. It takes twice as long as a running stitch but is three to four times stronger. The rhythm takes a minute to get used to: forward, back, forward, back. Once you find it, backstitch becomes almost as fast as running stitch. The key is keeping your stitch length consistent. Uneven backstitches create a wobbly line that is both weaker and more visible than an even one.
Good to know: Keep your stitches small and even for the strongest result. Backstitch works best when each stitch is about an eighth to a quarter of an inch long. Larger stitches are faster but weaker and more visible.
Learn the slip stitch for invisible hems
The slip stitch (also called a blind hem stitch) is nearly invisible from the outside of a garment. Fold the hem to the desired length and pin it in place. Working from right to left (or left to right if you are left-handed), pick up one or two threads from the outer fabric (not going all the way through), then pick up a small bit of the folded hem edge. Alternate between the outer fabric and the hem edge every quarter inch. When you pull the thread, the stitch disappears into the fold. This is the stitch to use when hemming pants, skirts, or curtains where you do not want the stitching visible from the outside. It takes practice to make it truly invisible, but even an imperfect version looks better than visible stitching on a hem.
Fix a ripped seam
Turn the garment inside out to access the seam. Line up the edges of the fabric where the seam has come apart. Pin them in place if needed to keep them aligned. Starting about half an inch before the rip begins (to anchor into existing stitches), backstitch along the original seam line through both layers of fabric. Continue half an inch past where the rip ends. This overlapping ensures the repair does not come undone at the edges. Knot off securely on the inside. Turn the garment right side out and check that the seam looks straight and the fabric lays flat. This repair is completely invisible from the outside because it follows the original seam line inside the garment. For seams under heavy stress (armpits, crotch seams, pockets that carry weight), reinforce by sewing a second line of backstitching about an eighth of an inch from the first. This parallel stitch distributes the load and prevents the repair from popping open again after a few wears.
Hem a pair of pants
Put the pants on and fold the excess length up to where you want the hem to fall. Pin it in place or mark it with a pen. Take the pants off and measure to make sure the fold is even all the way around the leg. Fold the raw edge under by half an inch to hide it, then fold the whole hem up to your marked line. Pin every few inches to keep it in place. Use the slip stitch to secure the hem, catching only one or two threads of the outer fabric with each stitch so the stitching is invisible from the outside. Work all the way around the leg, keeping your stitches even. Remove the pins as you go. Iron the hem flat when finished for a crisp, professional look. For heavier fabrics like denim or wool pants, use a slightly larger needle and a thimble to push through the extra layers. The slip stitch still works, but you may need to use more force on each stitch. If the hem is very thick (more than three layers of heavy fabric), a simple running stitch on the inside of the fold is acceptable since it will be hidden by the fold.
Finish and secure your stitching
When you reach the end of your sewing, make a knot on the wrong side (inside) of the fabric. The easiest method: take a tiny stitch in place, but before pulling the thread all the way through, pass the needle through the loop two or three times. Pull tight to create a secure knot. Cut the thread close to the knot, leaving about a quarter inch tail. For extra security on repairs that will be under stress, make two or three of these finishing knots in the same spot. The thread should never be so tight that it puckers the fabric or so loose that loops show on the right side. If you run out of thread mid-repair, tie off where you are using the same knotting method, rethread your needle, and start again about a quarter inch before where you stopped. Overlap the new stitches with the old ones so there is no gap. The overlap creates a continuous line and prevents the seam from separating at the junction.
Hand sewing is one of those skills that pays for itself immediately. The first time you fix a ripped seam instead of replacing a forty-dollar shirt, you have already saved more than the cost of your supplies. You do not need to learn everything at once. The running stitch and backstitch cover most repairs. Add the slip stitch for hems, and you can handle nearly any fix that comes up in daily life. Practice on scrap fabric if you have some, or just start with a real repair the next time something rips. The best way to learn is to fix something you actually need fixed.
Questions we get asked about this
Answers from experience, not a textbook.
Hand sewing is slower but requires no equipment beyond a needle and thread. It is ideal for repairs, small alterations, and situations where precision matters more than speed. Machine sewing is faster, produces more uniform stitches, and is necessary for constructing garments from scratch. For everyday repairs like fixing seams, hemming, replacing buttons, and closing holes, hand sewing is all you need. In practice the two go together, a machine for projects and hand sewing for repairs.
For general-purpose hand sewing on regular-weight fabric like cotton, linen, or polyester, use a "sharps" needle in size 7 or 8. These are medium-length needles with a sharp point and a small eye. For heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, use a larger needle (size 1 to 5). For very fine fabrics like silk, use a smaller, thinner needle (size 9 to 12). A variety pack of sharps covers most needs for about three dollars. The numbering is counterintuitive: higher numbers mean smaller needles. A size 12 is tiny, a size 1 is large. When in doubt, start with size 7 or 8 for your first project. They work on the widest range of common fabrics.
Stretchy fabrics like jersey and knits require a stitch that stretches with the fabric. Use a small zigzag-like hand stitch by making your stitches at slight angles rather than straight. Or use a stretch stitch: make a backstitch but leave a tiny bit of slack in each stitch so it can stretch without snapping. Alternatively, use polyester thread, which has some natural stretch, rather than cotton thread. Keep your tension loose. A tight stitch on stretch fabric will pop the moment the fabric is stretched. Test your stitch on a scrap of the same fabric before starting the actual repair. Gently stretch the sample to make sure the stitches hold without popping or distorting the fabric.
Even stitches come from practice and paying attention to two things: stitch length and tension. Try to make each stitch the same length as the one before it. A quarter inch is a good target for most hand sewing. For tension, pull the thread snug but not tight after each stitch. If you pull too hard, the fabric puckers. If you leave it too loose, the stitches are sloppy. Practice on a scrap piece of fabric before working on something that matters. After about twenty minutes of practice, your hands develop a rhythm and consistency improves significantly.
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How to Sew
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